Gujarat has a very rich heritage
of art & crafts. The excavations at the Harappan sites in
Gujarat at Lothal, Rangpur, Rozdi etc. have brought to light some of
the very ancient handicraft articles.
The Patola of Patan is a unique fabric of Gujarat. This
special variety of women's wear is strikingly attractive with its
colourful geometrical patterns. This lovely silken fabric, which
resembles a printed sari is not an apparel printed by blocks. Its
tie and weave method resulting in identical patterns on both sides
of the fabric, involving complicated calculations, is entirely based
on the geometry of the design. The process consists of dyeing the
warp and the weft threads in conformity with the proposed design on
the fabric. Hand-woven and silk yarn is used for weaving. The
process is both costly and time consuming and the market is limited
with the result that the families doing this work are fast
dwindling.
The Jari industry of Surat is one of the oldest handicrafts whose
origin can be traced to the Mughal period. Surat is one of the
biggest and important Jari manufacturing centres in India. The
principal types of products are real gold and silver threads,
imitation gold and silver threads, embroidery such as the Chalak,
the Salama, the Kangari, the Tiki, mainly the Ring and the Katori
for motifying in the Kinkhab (cloth of gold) and the Jari border
weaving, embroidery, laces, caps, turbans, saris, and blouse pieces.
The Tanchoi or silk brocade is woven on silk cloth is decorated with
the designs of birds, animals, leaves, fruits etc. The cloth is used
for costly saris, blouses and tapestry. The Kinkhab or the Indian
brocade is woven on the silk with gold and silver threads.
Dyeing is a hereditary art. In the past cloth was dyed in
colours extracted from trees and flowers. The Sarkhei suburb of
Ahmedabad was one of the indigo manufacturing and exporting centres.
The Bandhani, tie and dye variety of sari is a very popular women's
wear. It involves an intricate process of tying knots on the fine
white fabrics, which are dipped in colours. The hues of deeper
shades are used over the previous ones to form the coloured back
ground of the cloth.
Cloth printing is a complicated and specialised job. It is
done with engraved wooden blocks and with screens. Certain craftsman
are doing superbly the work of printing different varieties which
are locally called Chundadi, Patola Plain Gala, Lehria, Bandhani,
Pomcha, Nagaria and so on. House hold utility and decorative
materials such as table-cloths, bed -covers, curtains, tapestries,
handbags and carpets are also prepared by this type of printing
processes.
Temple curtains popularly known as Mat-no-Chandarvo is another type
of printing work. The Vahari-Harijan families of Ahmedabad were
engaged in this type of printing. It is prepared in the old madder
process and depicts goddess Durga seated on the throne or on the
back of a tiger and surrounded by her devotees.


